Where: Magdalen Islands, Quebec
What: Watersports, Hiking, and bicycle touring as a family
When: Summer – from June (for the flowers) to August (For swimming and festival season) but winter is fantastic too.
I might have seen it coming, once you’ve been to the islands you won’t want to come back. We soaked in deserted beaches, their tan and ochre cliffs, and wildflower covered bluffs, and fell head over heels in love.
For years we had wanted to go, but each time the distance (15 hours driving from Montreal and 5 crossing the water) had us wondering whether the trip would be worth it.
Finally one day we decided to bite the bullet and go. It was now or never as they say, our daughter was a year and a half old, and we wanted an easy destination for biking, the beach, and relaxing.
Over two unforgettable weeks we were surprised time and again as the islands surpassed our best expectations.
What was it about these little islands, lost in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, that we found so enchanting?
Frist, nature and the ocean are everywhere. No matter where you are on the islands you’re never more than two kilometers from the shore.
When it comes to outdoor activities, your options are limitless, with ocean adventure right at the top of the list. Sea Kayaking, kite surfing, catamarans… there’s no shortage of things to try out, or places to rent gear and get lessons to help get your feet wet.
Kiting is a must – friendly winds along hundreds of kilometers of deserted beaches make this the perfect place to take it up.
Those of you who love life on two wheels won’t be disappointed either, even if from time to time the wind makes your travel a little tougher. You can also find fantastic hiking trails across all the islands, you’ll stroll through fields without fencelines among cows and horses.
All this, and we’ve still only just touched one small part of the islands’ charm.
There’s food, music, the feeling of being so far from Quebec and Montreal, discovering or reconnecting with Acadian routes, the smile of the islanders, the fresh air, and the calm…
Despite their growing recognition as a great destination the islands have kept their authenticity and charm.
I often catch a case of the blues at the end of a vacation, but this time it was worse than ever. I didn’t want to ever return to the mainland, and dreaded getting on the boat that would float us away from paradise.
That the blues were that strong was a surprise, we really hadn’t done all that much during our time there. Our days were as simple as they could be, between hiking and biking we’d build sand castles or fly kites on the beach (really a different beach each day) or walk among the wildflowers behind our cottage. We’d tune in to the local radio station for their daily lost-and-found. We’d grill lobster, sausage, and enjoy the island beer.
In fact it was that absence of “action” that hit me with such full force. Inside the slow, insular pace of the island I found my rhythm.
There’s very little keeping us from moving to the islands, just these two small reasons: The lack of mountains for climbing, and the isolation during the winter months when we’re told the snow doesn’t fall but merely passes by, carried by incessant winds.
We haven’t been back since our trip in 2008, afraid to break our dreams perhaps… but there’s no doubt we’ll be returning during the winter at some point to see how we’d do. I’m afraid to know the answer and face the consequences.
It’s a cliché to be sure, but you absolutely must see the islands once during your life. Whether you leave again is another story, but you’ve been warned.
Visit Magdaline Islands tourism for more.
This post was originally written in French by FX for our Blogue.
Follow along if you want to read more from our favourite places series.
There’s a boat service in Montréal that will take you and your bike on a week-long cruise down the St-Lawrence from Montréal to the Magdalen Islands and back, with a few stops on the way. It’s pricey (about $1,200), but that includes meals and lodging, and a spectacular prelude to 3 days of cycling on the islands. It’s on our wish list and we’ll do it one of these years.
In 1970 (ish) my parents and 4 children packed up the family car and drove from Cape Breton to Summerside PEI. At the time there were no Ferries to the Magdalen Islands so the car was strapped in a sling and lowered into the belly of a ship.
My parents still talk about that trip. The food (acceding to them) was great, all the fresh fish you could eat and the people were fabulous.
I was born long after that trip, and have spent every summer vacation hearing about what a great trip it was. It was an inexpensive trip (at the time) for the 6 of them and the kids, for the most part, got to run loose on the beach.
Some day I hope to go.
I live full time on the islands now. My family has been here for seven or eight generations, at least.
The winters can be trying because of the lack of snow. Usually we get a very few weeks of cross-country skiing, a number of carnivals, and a few other regular activities but mostly we learn to educate ourselves in the ways of overcoming isolation. Of course with the ferry now running all winter, even that is possible.
Thanks for the article. It was interesting to read and the photos are beautiful.